Burrs appear (turning, milling)

?Likely causes

• Cutting edge is dull (large honing or worn)Agreed by 2+ makers^{[1][2][3][4][5]}
• Boundary wear is largeAgreed by 2+ makers^{[1][6][7][5][8]}
• Feed or depth of cut is large, making chips thickAgreed by 2+ makers^[2][5][4][9]
• Feed is too small relative to the edge radiusOne maker^[1]
• Corner angle (lead angle) of the face mill is large, or the cutter diameter is too largeOne maker^[2][9]
• Cutting speed is not suitableAgreed by 2+ makers^[3][7][4][2]

✓Fixes

Cutting conditions

• Reduce the feed and depth of cut (split into roughing and finishing passes)Agreed by 2+ makers^[2][5][4][8]
• In turning, reduce the cutting speed and increase the feed (Tungaloy, Mitsubishi)Agreed by 2+ makers^[3][7]
• In milling and end milling, increase the cutting speedAgreed by 2+ makers^[4][2][9]

Tool

• Use a sharp tool with a large rake angleAgreed by 2+ makers^{[1][2][3][7][4]}
• Replace or regrind edges with wear or boundary wearAgreed by 2+ makers^[4][5]
• If boundary wear is the cause, use a harder grade or a coated toolOne maker^[7][8]
• For face milling, use a cutter with a small corner angle and a diameter that matches the widthOne maker^[2][9]

Setup

• Use a tool path with a chamfer or radius at the exit and entryOne maker^[1]

Coolant

• Use wet cutting (turning)Agreed by 2+ makers^[3][7]

Where sources differ: Sources give opposite statements on the edge angle for turning burr countermeasures (Sandvik says a smaller lead angle; Tungaloy and Mitsubishi say a smaller side cutting edge angle). The lead angle and the side cutting edge angle are defined in opposite directions, so be careful when rewriting.

▦Notes by material

• Stainless steel and heat-resistant alloys: Boundary wear tends to be the main damage and causes burrs. Use a large radius and keep the depth of cut at or below the radius^[6][10]

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